Yesterday, we got all the fluids topped off and was all set to start the car. However, the battery was dead probably from me testing out the car audio/video. So we charged the battery and with start assist, finally were able to turn it over. Adam then noticed that there was an oil leak. So we shut off the motor and traced the source of the leak. It was the new braided oil line from the turbo to the block. I used the old copper washer which upon inspection, had a very little slight bend allowing oil to leak through. No worries, new copper washers installed and the car was fired up again.
It was now having a rough idle as it did before we changed out the exhaust manifold. Fortunately, no more leaks- oil or coolant as the new braided stainless steel lines solved all this. We now needed to figure out the reason for the idling problem. We started to play with the crank angle sensor (CAS) thinking that it might have been put in a tooth or 2 off causing the timing to be off. Also, we found a vacuum port under the throttle body that was open to the atmosphere that should appearntly be capped off. I stuck my finger to block the port and the motor started to stall and bog worse. This is due to the fact that the idle air control valve not being turned up enough.
Next order of business.
1. Pull the valve cover and reallign the CAS correctly with top dead center
2. cap off open vacuum port
3. adjust idle air control valve
Then we should be in business and be up and driving on the road.
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